AUTUM / WINTER 2017-18
With “The Dreamer” the most humanist trilogy of all of my collections comes to a close and this may be the most utopian of the three. Whereas in “Antihero” I spoke of treacherous dreams, of the people who despite their loss of hope, find any type of personal motivation to pick themselves back up countless times to dream again and risk everything again, fall down and begin once more – that lost hope and those frustrated wishes only make our passion grow again and believe in new dreams, new beliefs and new utopias. In “The Thinker” my admiration was for those who shy away from comfort, for those who risk everything in search of something different, in the way they think and the way they act. I spoke of autonomous thoughts that belong to unique minds, somewhat naive ones for not accepting it, but brilliant because they go back to believing in ideals, perhaps utopian ones.
In “The Dreamer” it is impossible for me not to begin talking about the concept of this collection without citing the historical reference of the fight for liberty and civil rights that Martin Luther King spoke of in his “I have a dream…” speech. That true lighthouse of hope – which I would even dare to say – is necessary nowadays for all of us, just as it was for those who united at the steps of the Lincoln Monument in Washington D.C. in that summer of ‘63.
“The Dreamer” is also an “Antihero” and a “Thinker”. The dreamer is a naive one too, the naive one who always manages to cross the frontier from the most pessimistic moments of personal evaluation to having the most hopeful vision and, of course, the most utopian, in which he dreams of a different future.
“The Dreamer” is dedicated to all those whose hearts are their main pillars in the fight against despair, to those who use their emotions to overcome a difficult personal situation to fly towards equality and liberty – two terms that are unattainable nowadays for all of humanity. Martin Luther King, Mandela, Gandhi or, I would even dare to include John Lennon’s “Imagine”, are all big dreamers whose hearts and minds yearned for the idea that, one day, all of our inalienable rights would be guaranteed: equality, freedom, and above all, happiness. All of those untiring dreamers who have become standard-bearers, others who have become social manifestos and others who have become a chorus or a hymn of a generation.
Our current social situation brings me to think that the unity of dreamers is necessary now more than ever.
Someone once said that “an isolated dream is a fantasy, perhaps even the prelude to a hallucination, but that a shared dream is a collective utopia, and ultimately an achievable goal, a challenge”.
I’ve always thought that it would be worth it, even if only for a few moments, to be naive and believe that the utopia of equality will, one day, be a possible path for all of those “Dreamers” who challenge the established.
.
• SILHOUETTES, FABRICS AND COLORS •
We are facing a reality in which fashion has become more sensitive, in which a high degree of importance is placed on each story that is told, the importance of “storytelling” is evident in each of my collections, and it is because of this that I am more and more interested in creating real, intimate and sensitive fashion. The women and men of “The Dreamer” are real people who worry about what surrounds them, dreamers who are prepared and willing to defend their ideals and rights in convulsive moments, as well as celebrate the most personal human emotions such as love, passion and… life.
My work speaks of sensations, of what surrounds us and worries us, and this is why all of my garments are carefully calculated when it comes to the aesthetic of lines and colors, and daring when it comes to the search of new fabrics and materials to create textures with combinations that are at times anomalous.
Small ruffles run along the pattern cut lines of the garments: the sleeves, the shoulders, the cuffs, the necklines, the yokes and the hemlines. The straight long dresses expose deep slits at the legs and deep “V” necklines protected by interior bustiers.
There is special work done on the sleeves of the garments like on the gigot sleeves, with pleated sleeve crowns, such as in the “twister sleeve” with spiral cut lines that twist around the arm and are buttoned at the cuff on dresses and shirts.
The order of the collection begins with structure and ends in controlled chaos with deconstructive work of two principal ideas. On the one hand men’s most classically tailored trousers that transform into pinafores and skirts, and on the other hand the cotton t-shirt that metamorphosizes into irregular clothes where necklines and sleeves grow and change in direction in their place from neck to hem.
All of this with the message of the collection: “ALL POWER TO THE DREAMER”, which comes from Black Panther’s well-known slogan which since the 60’s has become an iconic affirmation, “All power to the people”.
A sober palette where the colors of nude, camel, red and black are combined with a wealth and variety of materials and textures which run throughout the collection, finishing with a chaotic “Pollock” print created with jacquard.
Coats in eco-friendly leathers and furs, such as the suede with a metallic finishing and the shearling with small, curly hair, and even fake, freshly sheared wool in blocks of untreated skein, alpaca wool, double-sided neoprene with sheared hair and knits sewn with long hair and lurex.
Jackets made of jacquards created with a combination of wool with silk for the tuxedo jackets and with a dupion silk foundation for double-breasted blazers and jackets alike.
Dresses, skirts and trousers in flocked geometric patterns, grainy crepes with a lurex shine, jacquard with zebra stains, squares of eco leather with embossing, trimmings with guipur sequins, muslin fabric with artisanally embroidered polka dots.
